For our last week in Electrical we did "on car" battery testing

• The very 1st thing we did was a Visual inspection.
• Then  we did an open circuit voltage test to determine the condition of the battery
• Checked the electrolyte levels to make sure the battery is not low on acid
• We also did a parasitic draw on the battery to check how many amps the battery was putting out with the Ignition switched off
• We checked for Corrosion around the battery terminals, made sure they are tight, checked for any damage to the Positive and Negative wires, checked that the battery was locked down in place, made sure there was no acid leakage and no damage to the battery itself
• Since the battery in the car was on charge, we removed the charger and turned on the headlights to remove the surface charge to get an accurate Voltage reading. Then using a Voltmeter we measure the Voltage between each battery terminal, our result was 12.7v which means the battery has a 100% state of charge
• Using a Hyrdometer we unscrewed the caps at the top off the battery and check the Electrolyte levels in each cell. Our result was 1.240 in each cell which indicates a 100% state of charge
• With the parasitic draw test we had to connect an Ammeter in series with the battery (and everything switched off) and using a jumper wire to keep the battery grounded and not loose connection we recorded the amount of Amps being drawn from the battery with everything turned off. Our Result was 0.02mA. Anything over 0.08mA is a high current draw and it will mean that your car will have trouble starting up after being parked for a small period of time and all your battery power is being used.